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We were up early (5.45) and met by Purna's son, Pemba, to take us to Purna and waiting taxi. Only a short ride to the bus stop to find an old Tata bus waiting. Thankfully we had seats by the door reserved.

We then had a four and a half hour bus journey along rough rock/mud tracks that could not really be called roads. Lots of interesting people, got on and off, some carrying some pretty strange and substantial things; including a karate class of kids, a diesel engine, a generator and some huge clay pots (which we now believe to be parts of the apparatus for distilling the local hooch – roxsi – made from millet). We passed through beautiful valleys and hills covered in terraces mostly growing corn. The bus conductor had a hand covered in warts and would periodically clamber up the side of the bus (whilst in full motion jerking round precipitous bends) by our window  to join those on the roof when the bus got too full.

Finally we reached the road head at Thimbu, where we stopped for a quick lunch before beginning the hike. Purna is obviously well respected along the route; the lady who brought us lunch called him “her God” (her two girls are at the school and she is very proud of how well they speak English).

We started the walk at about 12.45, Purna had thankfully hired some porters to carry the heavy stuff, which included our two big rucksacks (one porter made us feel very puny by carrying both at once). They are apparently used to carrying about 50kg up the hill - he quickly dispensed with the shoulder and waist straps, preferring to carry the load using a strap across his forehead. Most porters carry their load in a large woven basket using a strap like this.

The climb took us up and along a valley with the river (Melamchi) down below. There were several stops for coke, tea – everyone prepares different tea with or without milk (powder) and sugar. The walk was very up and down and we had to cross a few tributaries along the way using quite precarious rope bridges, which were very wobbly and sometimes had loose planks as a floor. All the fun of Go Ape but without the safety harness!

By this time very sweaty, we reached the bottom of the main steep climb about 4 o'clock. There was a brief but heavy shower and a lady called to Purna for us to take shelter in her house/hut. In her very basic house, which had no chimney, she made us tea on an open fire and fed us biscuits. Apparently her sons used to attend Purna's school, but it is about a 2 hour walk each way and they are now starting to work as porters. Whilst we sat there, Purna tried to persuade them to find a way to finish off their education.

A short way further up the hill, we stopped again in a more substantial dwelling. This time we sat round the hearth of an iron stove with a chimney taking the smoke outside. A few other people were doing the same climb and all of us stopped here for a bite to eat before the final push. On offer were super noodles with chilli sauce (usually reserved for a quick snack after the pub, but most welcome).

It was a further two hour steep and pretty relentless climb from here up to the village of the Melamchi-ghyang. Just as it was getting dark and we were thinking we might need torches, we finally arrived at Purna's house which sits on the edge of the plateau and is the first building you come to. It is a lovely stone and wood house. There was no electricity, but exactly the same stove and hearth we'd seen earlier (and now suspect is in every house), around which we sat and drank tea and ate some rice and curry that Purna's wife had left.

The porter carrying our bags did not make it up the last bit of the climb before dark, so we we were very tired and sweaty but without a change of clothes. Purna showed us to a clean, comfortable room, and we were in bed by 9.30. It had been a longer day than we'd expected – we'd been travelling for about a solid 13 hours (we shared the irony with Purna that this is about as long as it took us to get from London to Nepal).

Leeches count: Drew – one pulled out of leg by Purna (hopefully the teeth not still lodged in there), and another very fat one which he hadn't noticed dropped off and crawled away during dinner! Heather - one on arm but it had not yet bitten so removed with ease... no bites yet, but the fear remains!

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